![]() Also one tube of their black water based ink which I sometimes use for proofing. I have some of their oil based inks, and love them. I'm new to this group but I thought I'd put my two cents in. ![]() I have a container filled with old speedball ink that I should toss because I think donating it to Etsy would be cruel. Regardless i know i'll be happier than with stinky speedball! This is all so helpful - i placed and order with daniel smith for acouple oils and a waterbased, i figure i'll experiment with both and we'll see what happens. Get some and have fun with it! If you are venturing north toward New Paltz / Kingston sometime or would like make the trip, you could check out the DS at my studio. ![]() I haven't tried the GC, but I must say the DS is light-years ahead of the Speedball. If you know what you're dealing with air-wise, a fan or a heater (helped me through the cold winter) works wonders. It is definitely a matter of the air temp and humidity though - I've had things dry in a day, other things take a few days, and if it's really bad, about 5 days to a week. The colors were better and it didn't dry so fast like the speedball but it was such a nightmare to work with. Maybe the Akua Color monotype ink is better, but I hated the intaglio ink almost as much as the speedball waterbased. If I were to delve into moku hanga and waterbased inks I would go the pigment route. I find that with thinner japanese papers even oil based ink seems to dye the paper. It was a total mess to work with and I sold it at a loss. I hated Akua Color ink so much! It did not clean up with soap and water. I personally love the way water-based ink literally dyes the paper fibers rather than lying on top. Their website has lots of info about how to best use their inks. especially chosing colors it's frustrating to only be online.Īnother water-based ink is Akua Color. In calling around it's so frustrating that there's no place to buy in person. Thanks guys! basically i know i'm going to go fully oil at some point.i think i'll just order some different inks from graphic chemical and daniel smith and see how they fare. I have never found good relief ink for sale in stores. My prints are usually small so 4 to 6" is probably the right size. ![]() If you get oil get some Soy Solve with it. i'm basically just being a big baby about it, and just need to go for it.Īlso in the market for a better brayer.thoughts anyone? i think i'm going to just have to bite the bullet and go oil. Stays open reasonably long, dries overnight and is waterproof once dry.ģ weeks!?!? for water based ink? wow. I've used the Graphic Chemicals water based ink with success. If you don't mind waiting a long time for prints to dry and have a place to store them while they dry I say go for it. Like you need to give the prints three weeks or more! But it is supposed to be fine to work with, have good colors and generally be a good ink. The only problem I have heard about DS waterbased is that it is very slow to dry. i tried dick blicks water and i had a horrible experience. just a little not too much to make it ruiny and i'm fine. I use water based speedball when i do my linocut greetings cards for friends. advice?Īlso, does anyone know if i could take a look at the daniel smith in person in NYC? most places just carry the basic stuff. i'm concerned though to take a risk on the water based again, but being cramped at home would make soap and water clean up so much easier. i've used graphic chemical before and like their colors & feel, but someone had mentioned that they like the daniel smith water based. i've finally fully accepted that it's awful - it's starts to dry after 3 prints! not to mention the colors and look of it.Īnyway, i want (NEED) to upgrade, and seen talk of the daniel smith or graphic chemical. i've been using the water based speedball (shame shame, yes i know) - and i've had enough. Hello all, i know ink discussions have been posted before but i'm at my wits end, and thought i'd probe for some advice.
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